A visit to Humayun’s Tomb, New Delhi

What made me go to Humayun’s tomb?

• Having lived in Delhi for a few decades now, I never knew that such a beautiful place existed in the heart of the city. In fact, I was not even aware of the history in its entirety. Since childhood, we have learnt history in bits and pieces.

• Then I became a part of the walk-e-Delhi group. In 4-5 heritage walks that I did with them, history started becoming a story and I got interested.

• In one of the walks to the old fort with them, I came to know the effort, Humayun put in order to get the throne of India. He came, then had to run when Sher Shah Suri attacked, and after more than a decade of running, he came back to Delhi when Sher Shah Suri died and became emperor of India.
• Humayun fell from stairs and died in old fort. Almost a decade later after his death, his widow Haji Begum got this tomb constructed at the site where he was buried. To have a deeper understanding of history, I was motivated to visit Humayun’s tomb.

• Not only Humayun but there are almost 100 other prominent , near and dear, important persons of that era who are buried in this campus. In fact, it is a grand Mughal mausoleum.

• History doesn’t confirm but there is mention that perhaps Dara Shikoh, brother of Aurangzeb, great- great grandson of Humayun was also buried here.

• We know about the bloody feud between Shahjahan’s children in which Aurangzeb came out as emperor of India and his brothers either fled or were killed. Dara Shikon, his brother, was brutally murdered.

• I also came to know of an interesting fact that Bahadur Shah Jafar fled red fort as British army came to arrest him and hid in Humayun tomb campus. He was finally captured from here and taken to Rangoon  where he died in exile.

• In school, history taught us the glory of the great Mughals. But here I listened to their stories. They had their share of wins, losses, deceit, treachery, fights too. My interest grew further, and I decided to visit all the places of historical interest around me and understand history from a larger complete picture point of view.

At a first glance the view mesmerizes. It brings Taj Mahal to memory. Later I came to know that the architecture of Taj Mahal indeed was inspired by the architecture of Humayun’s tomb. Taj Mahal came about 90 years or so after Humayun’s tomb.

I was astounded on entering the complex. Never did i imagine that such a sprawling beautiful, well-maintained complex exists in middle of congested Nizamuddin area of Delhi.

I must have passed from outside scores of times but never realized that there is so much of history inside. In fact, there is a blue domed monument in middle of a roundabout just outside the complex. For years I thought that was the tomb of Humayun.

My thanks to walk-e-Delhi team headed by Shri Alok Puranik ji and Shri Manu Kaushal ji.

They are ably supported by Ira Puranik. It is 5 walks now that I have walked with them. Many a times Mrs. Puranik and Mrs. Kaushal join to motivate and it’s all like a big family. Over a period of time there are many known faces in group who are becoming friends.

In all, the group generates positive vibes amongst like-minded people who thoroughly enjoy 2 hrs. of time that a walk generally takes.

And, such a walk is not an ordinary tourist – guide kind of walk. Thorough research is done, and we hear stories, sharayari, poems, anecdotes which are not easily available on net or YouTube.

On entering the premises I couldn’t help noticing very old trees linining both the sides of pathway. Perhaps they are as old as the people lying under the tombs.

Walking a little further takes us to a gate on the right to a tomb of Isa Khan. Isa Khan Niyazi was a noble in the court of Sher Shah Suri. It is said that Isa Khan built this tomb during his own lifetime. This tomb was built in 1547-48. It was 20 years later that Humayun’s tomb came adjacent to it.

The octagonal structure with lattice screens, glazed tiles, deep verandah is a visual treat. There is also a mosque on its side. The entire walled complex looked very beautiful. Winters were setting, there was slight chill in the air along with some fog which made the walk more enjoyable.

Above: Stunning view of the tomb of Isa Khan on entering through the gate.

Turning face right side, I saw a magnificent view of a mosque. ( above)

Once in the complex, turning back, the view of gate itself is beautiful. ( above.)

Coming out of this complex and walking a little further, there is another beautiful enclosure or complex. The gate to the enterance of this complex looks so beautiful.( below)

As the information says, this gate and the complex it leads to, is called “Bu Halima” garden. Not much is known about her. It is believed Bu Halima was a part of Babur’s harem and was Humayun’s wet nurse.

Enter the gate, turn around and it is a big WOW.

This complex is a rectangular enclosure which contains a green, well-trimmed garden.

Centuries old structures have a distinct design pattern. Most of the Mughal architecture that I have seen, have a distinct Persian style. In fact, Persian language was the common language used and not Urdu as I earlier believed.

On entering through the gate I saw beautiful greenary and on slight right stood a magnificent tomb and a mosque. Perhaps Bu Halima was an important person.

This is the tomb and on right is the mosque partly visible.

These are the stairs leading to mosque where we had first literature- history session, the photos of which I have posted at the beginning of this article.

I thoroughly enjoyed the stories shared by our walk leaders related to Humayun, Mughal empire and Delhi.

• That Aurangzeb ruled India for 40 years. This is really a long time to rule a country as diverse and as complicated as India and that too in those days. No wonder we find his footprint everywhere around the religious controversies we have these days.
• I was surprised to know that Aurangzeb in fact banned consumption of liquor and dancing in his kingdom.
• Being a religious fanatic, Aurangzeb enforced Shariya law and reimposed Islamic practices throughout the empire.
• Dara Shikoh, the son who was chosen to be emperor, was a writer and a poet. He was not a fighter as a king should be. He was murdered by his brother Aurangzeb who became the king. There is a lesson to be learnt in this. You must perform as per the requirement of the place destiny has put you in. Otherwise, survival may be difficult.
• * Shahjahan had 3 sons and 2 daughters. When infighting took place, one son fled and two groups of one brother-one sister in each were formed. They fought with each other in which Dara Shikoh was brutally killed and Aurangzeb became king. After Aurangzeb, the downfall of Mughal empire began. There is an important lesson to be learnt here that family which stays together remains stronger.

I would have missed all the stories and anecdotes if for my friends Alok ji and Manu ji. Whenever you go to such an historical place, it is better if you are in a company of a person who knows about the history of that place, for, through that person, every stone, every wall will talk to you. Every monument has stories hidden in its bosom.

Now we walked to the main complex that houses Humayun’s tomb.

As I entered the gate, the tomb stood stunningly in front of me – ditto Taj Mahal.

It is actually a massive structure as compared to what appears in the picture above as it has been taken from a distance. It has an underground basement where perhaps the bodies were buried. Then there is a plateform where you have to climb using steep stairs. The platform is at a height.

Below – standing on the platform and looking back towards the gate from where we entered, gives a magnificent sight.

There are countless of grave stones around. There are countless of unknown buried in this premises as can be seen below.

Above – This is the tomb where Humayun was laid to rest. All his life he could never settle and rest. He was always on the move. Finally, he got a place to rest at this spot. Humayun wanted the entire India or Hindustan as it was known then. Finally, it was this small piece of land where he could lie in peace.

High beautiful ceilings make this place a mesmerising one.

Main hall is connected to different halls where there are graves as well.

There is no proof but it is said that one of the graves in above photo belongs to Dara Shikoh, son of Aurangzeb, great grand son of Humayun.

A suggestion– Finally when you come out of mausoleum, take a stroll all around the structure and observe the amazing architecture of the tomb.

Below is the aerial view of the grand structure

The tomb is considered to be the first garden-tomb on the Indian subcontinent. It is also the first example of the distinctive Mughal style of architecture, which combines Persian, Indian, and Islamic elements. The tomb is built on a raised platform, surrounded by a charbagh, or a four-part garden. The tomb itself is an octagonal structure, with a double dome, arched niches, and inlaid marble.

Do not be in a hurry. Take a casual stroll and let the marvel of bygone era soak in.

Walking around the complex I came across a tomb at a distance surrounded by trees. In early wintry morning, with slight haze, it looked beautiful and we decided to explore.

As it turned out, this tomb belonged to some another important person maybe a barber or someone. But whatever, there is a charm out there.

This is where our group had another session of history-literature-storytelling. As per the norm, Manu Kaushal ji enacts a character related to the place of visit. This time he brought before us none other than Emperor Shahjahan himself.

Shahjahan came in discreetly, as, the rules of monument do not allow him to come in his royal attire now. This is to maintain the decorum of the place.

This time Manu ji brilliantly brought out the emotional pain of Shahjahan. In this mausoleum lies his great grandfather Humayun and his own son Dara Shikoh, brutally murdered by another son Aurangzeb. Shahjahan did not know whether to be proud of his great grandfather for laying the foundation of the great Mughal empire or to feel the sorrow of a father whose children fought amongst themselves to succeed as emperor.

Manu ji, an experienced theatre artist that he is, touched each and every one of us with his act and it was a perfect end to a memorable walk.

Why you should visit Humayun’s tomb

• For its rich historical and architectural significance.
• To witness outstanding example of persian inspired mughal architecture of red sandstone and marble based intricate geometrical patterns , prominent double dome, symetrical gardens, water channels, detailed carvings and intelligent use of light and space.
• To experience peaceful and serene ambience of Tomb’s surroundings which provides stark contrast to bustling city outside.
• To step back into time and immerse yourself to grandeur of excellence of mughal architecture and history.
• For deeper understanding of India’s rich heritage and architectural legacy.
• To see why Humayun’s tomb is the largest tomb in the country.